The site is hosted on Github Pages. This is what Github says:

Please note that GitHub may collect User Personal Information from visitors to your GitHub Pages website, including logs of visitor IP addresses, to comply with legal obligations, and to maintain the security and integrity of the Website and the Service.

I use GoatCounter to count the goats people visiting. It’s open source. They don’t use cookies or store any personally identifiable information, not even the IP address. Here’s their privacy policy and GDPR notice. I’ve disabled referrer and UA collection, and set retention to 31 days.

The website stats are public.